Wednesday, 30 May 2012
Sunday, 27 May 2012
Adrian wanted to lead Ardus on Shepherds & I wanted to jump on Penal Servitude at Reecastle.
Enjoy the sun, while it lasts!
Wednesday, 23 May 2012
Leo & Woody were up for some action, although time was tight as it's Wednesday & both Woody & myself were on the school runs.
The route starts just below the impressive & classic corner of Trilogy, but steps right as for Pluto (which is a great route in itself, traversing under this steep wall at HVS) & after a couple of metres heads straight up with hard pulls over the overlap gaining a sloping ledge with small crimps & more hard pulls until onto more steady ground cutting back into the final hard & overhanging corner of its neighbour Trilogy.
The heat didn't really effect the climbing, the rock didn't seem to sweat up or feel greasy which was a shame as I could have used that as an excuse for falling off above the crux & moving to the more moderate ground! although maybe being last up, the rock had become more greasy!!!
Anyway Leo did a great job flashing the route, working through the bottom very cruxy section with strenuous hard pulls & looking super solid.
Leo then belayed Woody, so I was able to get some shots. Woody did a great job hanging in there through the 6b bottom section & working it all the way to the top. All those circuits down the Fly Cave is really paying dividends! - Good effort Woody.
Sunday, 20 May 2012
Woody was belaying a mate on Armalite last week & saw a new steeper direct line up the shield of rock which Armalite traverses across.
Armalite's a route on the steep Lower Gully wall on the left flank of Middlefell Buttress as you approach from behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel.
Woody's route takes a plum line, directly up the steep shield of immaculate Rhyolite rock cutting through the traverse on Armalite & then directly to the top with some fantastic climbing - great job Woody.
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
It's still cool for May & it's been raining off & on a lot, so we wanted somewhere close & accessible due to the time constraints but also dry & dared we think it? in the sun!
So we headed up into Langdale, parked at the New Dungeon Ghyll & headed up to Middle Scout.
Tuesday, 15 May 2012
Adrian Walter's got his SPA assessment this weekend & he wanted to get a route in & myself, I'd eyed up a good looking route on the Assagai Wall which stood out last time I was there, when I climbed Moondance on the Main Wall.
Monday, 14 May 2012
Both Tim Neill & Steve Long drove up from N Wales to help out & we split the days into guided multi-pitch rock climbing, short roping & teaching rock climbing days.
It was great to spend time with both Tim & Steve and work with the new trainees coming through the BMG scheme, the guys being super enthusiastic & keen to learn.
Saturday, 12 May 2012
Friday, 11 May 2012
We enjoyed some great weather last weekend, so we headed into Great Langdale. For one of the guys it was his first climbing experience so we headed up the Classic Middlefell Buttress on Raven Crag behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll. Middlefell buttress is a fantastic introduction to rock climbing taking a great line up the left most part of the Crag on fantastic volcanic rock. The Rhyolite rock here gives great friction & good solid protection for the first time leader. The buttress also gives moderate climbing linking short pitches together interspersed with good ledges & belay & the views of the valley below are stunning, the higher up you climb the more the valley below opens up until you can see Lake Windermere in the distance.
Gimmer Crag is one of my favourite crags in Langdale sitting high up on the hillside towering above the valley below & facing south it gets plenty of sun & drys quickly. There's loads of classic great routes here at all grades from Gimmer Chimney, Bracket & Slab climb, A route, B route, C route & D route all moderate in grade, Springbank, Eastern Hammer, Equus, Kipling Groove, Intern & Gimmer String all mega classic 3 star routes and the list just goes on - an awesome crag.
Sunday, 6 May 2012
A view out from the first belay on Bergermeister